Tag Archive for 'wellington'

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life on a south pacific island

the biggest surprise for me about our move to nz has been how much i enjoy living on the coast and spending time at the shore.

i’ve never been a big ocean person before despite living over 20 years in boston. and i still have no interest in going to the beach to lie down on a blanket and get a tan – but most of the nz coastline is too rugged for that anyway and is great to walk along. the rock and tides make it a new experience every time. and something that i can’t explain is that if i didn’t know better i would swear that that water was fresh and not saltwater. previously i always felt sticky and gritty as soon as i got out of the water – but not here.

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just a few blocks from our house is island bay with the local fishing fleet. island bay is one of the oldest settlements in wellington and founded by italian fishermen. unfortunately there’s not much evidence of the italian culture left in town (i’m trying my part to reverse this with my italian scooter). you can see in the 2 photos below the island bay shoreline is a mix of clear and rocky areas. during the warm weekends there is always a group of local kids swimming and having a great time in the surf.

gromit has become quite the ocean dog – scrambling over the rocks and wading through the surf. his favourite activity is fetching the tennis ball that we throw just a few feet into the surf. what amazing me is how he immediately knew how to time waves and that if he waited the ball would come to him. in the gromit-has-his-long-list-of-issues camp, after we’ve had our fun at the beach and everyone is quite wet, gromit totally cowers in fear of getting rinsed off with the hose. running in the ocean, timing the crashing waves, scrambling over rocks – no problem. a bit of water from a garden hose – no way.

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a bit to the west is siren rocks – a very popular place for snorking and kayacking. we take our beach chairs and hang out whenever the weather is good. gromit is on high alert when i’m out snorking.

notice the

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the map below shows island bay. near the top of the bay you can see the fishing fleet and counter-clockwise around the bend the pier and then the first rocky bit of our shore. further down where the shoreline bends to the left is siren rocks. the island right off shore is taputeranga. it is the small island visible some of our shoreline photos and movies.

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the hills in the distance of many of our photos is another part of the lower north island – on the right in the map below.

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i’ve added some mini-movies of our times at the shore on the media page.

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fetch

island bay surf

high tide

crouch, touch, pause, engage

tonight we went to our second rugby match this season to root for wellington hurricanes as they took on the waikato chiefs.

as part of our continuing effort to acclimate getting in the rugby spirit seemed to logical thing to do, so we are now season ticket holders to wellington rugby. this gets us quite a bit including tickets to all wellington hurricanes home games, all wellington lions home games, the all blacks test match against south africa, and most importantly – seats for next year’s sevens.

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the hurricanes are in the super 14 rugby league with teams from nz, australia and south africa. although most players on the hurricanes are from the wellington region player do move from team to team like in most us sports. the super 14 season runs february to may. the air new zealand cup (formally the national provincial championship) has 14 teams each representing an nz province. the air new zealand cup season immediately follows the super 14 season with most all nz super 14 players also playing for their local air new zealand cup team. the all blacks compete in the annual irb test matches (international competitions) and the every four years irb world cup (next world cup in nz in 2011). this complicates things further since the all blacks squad is composed of the best nz players who are all playing for their local air new zealand cup teams. so when the all blacks are practicing or competing, the air new zealand teams all lose their best players. this normally is ok with the fans as long as the all blacks are winning. when they don’t (they didn’t in the recent world cup) the air new zealand cup fans feel a bit ripped off. with the world cup disappointment still fresh, and the country still exhausted from the stress lead up to and during the world cup, attendance at the super 14 games is down quite a bit. a lot of talk of rugby fatigue.

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good for us the hurricanes won both this game (39 to 19) and our first home game against the queensland reds (23-18).

i think we understand the rules enough to enjoy the games, but for a sport that already has some odd language (tighthead prop, maul, ruck, etc.) they have added to the challenge but rolling out some experimental rules change for this season. let me know what you think of the new breakdown rules:

breakdown (tackle/post tackle)

  • players entering the breakdown area must do so through the gate
  • immediately the tackle occurs there are offside lines
  • the half back should not be touched unless he has his hands on the ball.

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like so many things new zealand, the atmosphere at the games is very small town. middle school kids are the ball boys on the side lines. several of the photographers are not wearing shoes. cheerleaders are college girls with ads for the local bowling alley on their butt.

but we love it. we scooted in to town, parked a block from the stadium (free), got our fish & chips and 4 pack of tui’s ($20) from the concession stand and were in our seats in time for the warm ups.

captain hurricane is our mascot – and i’d like to point out that he won the mascot race held at this year’s sevens tournament.

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tui beer is one of the major sponsors of wellington rubgy. they target primarily sporting fans. perhaps the budweiser of nz. but this being nz they can get away with things that would likely cause a stir in the states. the tui girls is the best example. they make up the civil offense squad and are seen at the games and around town in their heels, miniskirts and toolbelts.

one of the running team gags is the hurricane force winds, so the tui girls bring around hair dryers that blow your hair back for a true hurricanes fan photo.

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distorsione di velocità, scooter piacevole

after an almost 3 month wait my scooter finally arrived.

this should make getting around the city a whole lot easier.

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just kidding. that’s jackie’s scooter. my scooter is below.

49cc’s of italian charm.

portofino green with carmel saddle leather.

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i’ve been scootering into the city most days, dropping my commute down to 12 fun minutes. plus i get to use the bus lanes and scooter parking in the city is free.

i filled up after my first 100 kms. 4.1 litres (a bit more than a gallon), or almost 60 mpg.

2 weekends ago the weather was great so the jboss and me spent a day out on the scooter. breakfast at “the bach” along the beach, then into the city for the afternoon, and finally around the peninsula.

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i love my new scooter but i think the jboss went a bit too far to show her loyalty.

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an afternoon in saint petersburg

this afternoon we went to a concert – an afternoon in saint petersburg – hosted by his excellency the governor-general, the honorable anand satyanand.

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the governor-general is the queen’s personal representative with in the realm of new zealand (new zealand, the cook islands, tokelau and niue) and has all the powers of the head of state (quite limited) during the queen’s (Elizabeth the Second, by the Grace of God, Queen of New Zealand and Her Other Realms and Territories, Head of the Commonwealth, Defender of the Faith) absence.

the concert by the wellington orchestra was held on the grounds of government house, the official residence of the governor-general. quite an impressive place. built in the early 1900s the main house is 4,200 sq m (over 45,000 sq ft) on 12 hectares (30 acres) of prime wellington land. the concert was held on what was originally the vegetable garden.

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we knew the end was sold out (the governor-general used ticketek to process the responses to his very exclusive invitations) and with the concert scheduled to start at 2 and the gates opening at 1200 we thought we were plenty early when we arrived at ten of twelve. guess not. the lines already stretched more than a block in each direction. at noon the lines started moving and we were soon through the gates and making the long walk through the property. the place oozed old colonial charm. local actors in 19th century russian outfits greeted the guests along the path. after picking up our hamper of food and drink we were soon on our piece of lawn. not the best spot but we’ll know to arrive sooner next year.

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(note how many folks are wearing big floppy hats. you have to get over looking like a dork or you will fry)

the opening performance was troika – a new zealand based russian folk music group (who woulda thunk!)

before the orchestra took the stage they asked for volunteers to join a local dance troupe in a demonstration of russian dancing. the russian ambassador who was in attendance joined in and no surprise was quite good. the ambassador seemed very nice, but in keeping with the everything-here-is-like-the-50s-timecapsule he seemed like someone you would see greeting kruschev as he toured a soviet tractor factory.

the main performance was some of st petersburg’s finest including tchaikovsky, prokofiev, stravinsky and rachmaninov. the acoustics were ok (tchaikovsky likely did not expect his works to be blasted out of concert speakers that were probably last used at ozziefest) but the day was great. the mc was kate mead of new zealand public radio. she did a great job providing background on the music in a very witty way. impossible to describe her personality but if i were hosting an event she would be someone i would want to be there.

the members of orchestra were dressed practically given the heat and sun – in simple black and most wearing sun glasses. both the jboss and me noticed one seemed a bit different that the rest. “xylophone girl” is in her 20s, hip sunglasses and she’s bopping her head to the music. we’re guessing that she went straight from the concert to her job as a barista at one of cuba street’s funkier cafes. “like my new tat?”

the day ended with tchaikovsky’s 1812 overture featuring real canon fire. the canons provided by a local canon enthusiasts club. i guess there is a club for everything almost everywhere.

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3 things i like about this photo.

- the red cross using the great old land rover complete with extension ladder. a small nod to the old colonial days but with the nz terrain you need something that can get you anywhere.

- the land rover pulling the camper. this is a classical british moment. they have just traveled over mountains, through forests, forded rivers to rescue a family in need. pitch black out with pouring rain and gale force winds. everyone is now huddled under wool blankets. “right then. time for a spot of tea don’t you think. biscuit?”

the soprano who has just performed sitting in the lawn chair enjoying the rest of the performance. no dressing room. no attitude.

1,2,3,4,5,6… 7

this weekend was the new zealand sevens.

at the simplest level it is an international rugby league with teams from 16 countries that play a series of 8 tournaments around the world. the format of the matches is radically different than traditional rugby with only 7 players on each side and a match composed of two 7 minute halves. the result is a very fast paced match that is decided in under 15 minutes. the next match starts just minutes later with 24 matches played during the first day. the second (and final) day begins the playoffs with 20 matches to ultimately determine the tournament winner.

new zealand has won the sevens championship 7 of the 8 years it has been running, and the nz tournament is hosted here in wellington.

the format would make it a great event but the wellington crowd has decide to improve on it a bit.

take the best halloween customs you’ve ever seen and mix it with mardi gras and you start to get a sense of the nz sevens.

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tickets are nearly impossible to get, but fortunately the celebration spills out of the stadium and into the city.

in keeping with the sevens theme tickets are sold in blocks of 7 and groups spend a ton of effort on the costumes.

during lunch on friday the cbd was packed with amazing outfits. on saturday the jboss and me walked around the city and had a great time.

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next year we’ll make sure somehow we have tickets.

added bonus, nz won the tournament in a close final against samoa

sanctuary

today we went to the karori wildlife sanctuary.

in the truly amazing category it is a 252 hectare (623 acre) predator free native forest and wildlife sanctuary only 2 km from the wellington city centre. started in 1992 as just a concept of jim lynch of royal forest & bird – by 1999 he had formed a trust, secured the land, design and erected a 8.9 km (5.5 mile) predator fence. a year later they had eradicated the invasive pests and began releasing a long list endangered native species including tuatara and little brown kiwi – both previously extinct on the nz mainland and both thriving in the sanctuary.

we were lucky enough (turns out very lucky) to see a tuatara (below left) on our tramp. these dudes are straight out of a dinosaur movie.

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you can see the predator fence running up the ridge (above right). next time you’re exhausted with a project out in the yard just remember this effort. first you clear a 3 meter wide track through the forest. then you dig a hole for the fence post. only 8,799 more to go. now you’re ready to haul up the materials and actually build the fence.

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you can see wellington harbour at the end of the valley.

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the area the sanctuary occupies has a great history. in the early settler days it was wellington’s main water supply. the gazebo in the photo above is actually the water master’s house suspended over the reservoir.

we spent several hours there and only saw a tiny piece. we’re looking forward to going back often (as new members).

jim conceived, planned, pitched and realized an innovative wildlife sanctuary near the centre of wellington that is the only mainland home to numerous endangered species. idea to opening in 7 years.

i picked up some litter on my way to lunch.

thanks jim.
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a day at the races

today we went to the wellington cup carnival – a week long series of events centered loosely around the sport of kings.

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the race course is at trentham, about 30k (~20 miles) north of the city. as with most events in the wellington area, no car required. we were able to take the train from wellington station right to the gates of race course. and no crush at the gates since we could buy a combo train & race course admission ticket at the station.

all good so far until we started looking at the others on the platform waiting for the train. almost everyone is is fancy dress. men in suits. women in dresses. most with fancy hats. and i’m in my american tourist shorts and sandals.

nothing we can do about it now so onward we go.

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after a hot ride on a packed train (one woman passed out) we arrived at the race course. most of the crowd is in their twenties and many of the young ladies are in heels and skimpy dresses. shamefully trampy or a magical day depending on your perspective

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“i’m going to kick your ass”

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lots of fancy hats.

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the potato sack dress is surprisingly popular in wellington this year.

i expect the lad on the left woke up on the floor of the bathroom.

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in addition to the horse racing there was a fashion competition. the woman on the left was the runner up on the new zealand designer competition. the mom & daughter in the center made my day. “mommmmm – rachel got a new mercedes – i want a new mercedes!” “yes dear – ask your father. i need a fresh drink…” extra special since someone else was wearing the same dress.

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“horsa racing,… she be berry berry good to me.”

we watched several races and had good time – but since betting on the races is not our thing and jackie sold all her fancy hats before we left boston, i’m guessing we may skip next year’s races.

grrrr

great day today so i suggested we go to the zoo. looking at the google map it didn’t look that far so i proposed we walk.

the trouble started almost immediately. on all maps melbourne road is a nice straight road about 10 blocks long. in reality it is a series of very hilly one block long segments with a step step of stairs connecting each block. so we’re getting quite the workout on what looked to be the easy part of the journey. when i printed out the map i though it odd that google had us taking a right on jackson st and heading backwards for a bit when there was another road that was much shorter that went through the park. when we get to jackson i declare “onward!” and we start looking for the path through the park. the first path we choose just disappears 100 meters into the woods. we backtrack and pick another path that looks promising. we’re heading up a steep path through the woods that is getting smaller and more overgrown the farther we go. at one point the path is complete blocked with thorny bushes and we’re forces to crawl under commando style.

let me admit here that since this excursion was my idea and i’m picking the route i view it as an adventure for all. if it were someone else’s journey i don’t expect i would be so generous in my assessment.

ultimately we reached a clearing at the top of the and are rewarded with a spectacular view of the island bay to the south and the city to the north.

after one more error by the navigator we arrived at the zoo.

i now carry a gps device that tags all my photographs with a location. a side-effect is that you can see your wanderings. you can see our drunken path to the zoo, our strolling around to exhibits and then our walk to the bus stop for the ride home.

growing up in saint louis with one of world’s best it is hard for any other zoo to stack up, but the wellington zoo did ok it it’s small town way. it is less than half the size of the stl zoo (13 hectacres [32 acres] compared to 77 acres) and most of the exhibits are not as modern, but the newest additions were promising.

the signage all had a blend of kiwi frankness and humour. one said “if you sit on the railing you will fall into the pen with the lion and you will die”.

i think the aussie kangaroo was a bit put off by being put on display in nz.

closed for the holidays

ok – so i guess the whole thing about a better work life balance in new zealand was not just marketing hype.

new zealand has nearly shut down for the next 2 weeks.

i was looking forward to my time off, but was not prepared for everyone else to take time off also.

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2 footnotes to the last image.

it’s from my favourite lunch place – the higher taste restaurant. i went in the first time out of curiosity and have been going back 2 or 3 times a week since. if they would cook all my meals i could become a vegetarian (vegan actually) tomorrow and miss nothing – well except the all-you-can-eat tony roma’s baby back ribs dinner.

the second is the irony of the hare krishna restaurant being closed for christmas

special edition – all fine in wellington

there was a 6.8 earthquake last night off the east coast of the north island near the town of gisborne. we didn’t feel anything here in wellington and all is well.

and now back to our regular programming…